Brake adjustment | Tips & Resources | Bicycle Network (2024)

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Brake adjustment can be a daunting prospect for the novice mechanic, but fear not – it’s significantly more straightforward than it may at first appear.

Brake adjustment 101

Brake adjustment | Tips & Resources | Bicycle Network (1)

The following tips for the three most common braking systems in Australia don’t require fancy tools—if you’ve got a set of Allen keys, two hands and ten minutes, you’ll be able to improve your braking performance.

The golden rule of brake adjustment, regardless of what braking system you have, is to check that the wheels are sitting correctly in the dropouts. Loosen the quick release on your wheels and wiggle the wheel from side to side until you’re confident that the wheel is sitting straight. Then, firmly retighten the quick release.

Caliper brakes

Step 1 – Centre your brakes

Firstly, it’s important to centre your brakes. Are the brake pads sitting an equal distance from the rim? If you can’t see this by eye, squeeze the brake and watch to see if the brake pads contact at the same time, or whether one pad pushes the rim across onto the other pad. To straighten the brake, loosen the bolt at the back, realign the brake and firmly retighten.

Step 2 – Check the distance

The next step is to check the distance of the pads from the rim. There’s no set rule on what this distance should be; some people prefer the brakes quite firm, others prefer a little more travel at the lever. Holding the brake caliper in one hand, loosen the bolt holding the cable and squeeze (or release) the brake calipers a little. Retighten this bolt and secure the cable, and then test how the brakes feel at the lever. Continue until the brake lever feels as you want it to.

Step 3 – Tyre clearance

The lever demonstrated in this position is not there to adjust brake feel, but to give space for tyre clearance when removing the wheel from the bike. When riding—and adjusting your brakes—make sure the point of this lever is facing downwards rather than out.

Step 4 – Align brake pads

Now that you’ve adjusted for brake caliper position and cable tension, align the brake pads. These should be positioned so that they are centered on the braking surface. They should never make contact with the sidewall of the tyre, and should never be lower than the braking surface. Spin the wheel and check that the brake pads are aligned with the braking track all the way around.

Step 5 – Barrel adjuster

Once cable tension and pad position has been set up, it’s easy to fine tune down the track with the barrel adjuster, as in the large image above. Turn this barrel clockwise to move the pads out from the rim, and counter-clockwise to move them closer. This is also the best way to adjust for cable stretch over time, without having to reset cable tension altogether, and allows micro-adjustment from in the saddle.

Disc brakes

Disc brakes are more complex to adjust than cable or V-brakes and the following is just one very simple, home-mechanic friendly way to fix a common issue. If your disc brake is rubbing, it is most often caused by an incorrectly aligned brake caliper, or the wheel having been incorrectly repositioned after removal.

Step 1

Before adjusting the brake itself, undo the quick-release skewer, check the wheel is sitting straight in the drop outs, and then firmly retighten the quick release. If the brake is still rubbing, the disc brake itself is the likely culprit.

Loosen both bolts on the brake caliper. They don’t need tobe undone completely—just enough for the caliper to moveside to side if you jiggle the caliper with your hand.

Step 2

While squeezing the corresponding brake lever firmly,retighten these bolts. The wheel should now spin freely.If the pads are still audibly rubbing on the brake rotor allthe way around, try this process again; sometimes ittakes a couple of attempts before the caliper settles in itscorrect position.

Step 3

If step two is still unsuccessful, you can also try to adjust the caliper by eye. In this image you can see that there is a gap either side of the rotor. With loosened bolts, realign the caliper by hand, and then whilst holding it firmly in position, tighten the bolts with your other hand.

V brakes

Step 1

After checking that the wheel is centered and spinning true, it’s time to adjust cable tension. While holding both arms of the brake with one hand, release the brake cable.

Step 2

Gently release your hand’s pressure on the brake armsuntil the brake pads are roughly the distance from the rimfor optimum braking. You may need to help guide the cablethrough its clamping point with your free hand.

Step 3

Reattach the brake cable and tighten the bolt. Confirm by squeezing the lever whether the brake lever travel is to your preference.

Step 4

Now that cable tension has been set, adjust the placement of the pads. To assist with positioning on the rim, either squeeze the V-brake arms hard into the rim with one hand to simulate braking (as demonstrated in the image), or squeeze the brake lever. Whilst the brake pad is loose, you can use your free hand to align the pad so it is contacting the rim in centre of the braking track. Once you’re satisfied that the pad isn’t set too low or rubbing on the tyre, retighten the bolt. Repeat on the other side.

Step 5

Clear on one side but rubbing on the other? This is wherethe little screws on each side of the brake come into play.Running up the back of each brake arm is a metal spring,the tension of which is controlled by this screw. If the rightbrake pad is rubbing, increase tension on the right springby winding this screw in, which will force the brake armout. Continue adjusting in this fashion until the pads are notrubbing on the rim, and contacting evenly. Once you’re happywith the position of the pads, check how the brake feelswhen you squeeze it, and repeat steps 1-3 to fine tune thefeel.

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Brake adjustment | Tips & Resources | Bicycle Network (2024)

FAQs

Brake adjustment | Tips & Resources | Bicycle Network? ›

Holding the brake caliper in one hand, loosen the bolt holding the cable and squeeze (or release) the brake calipers a little. Retighten this bolt and secure the cable, and then test how the brakes feel at the lever. Continue until the brake lever feels as you want it to.

What is brake adjustment when is it required? ›

Where the drum system is not self-adjusting, you can move the shoes closer to the inner surface of the drum as the lining material wears down. They need adjusting when there is an increase in the travel of the brake pedal before the brakes come on.

Why is my bike brake lever not springing back? ›

If it's not returning it's either due to too much friction or a brake spring that's broken or misadjusted. First guess is that the brake cable is rusted or perhaps crimped. (Be careful to keep lubricants off the brake pads and wheel rim.) (And, as stated, WD40 is a lousy lubricant.

Why are my disc brakes not working on my mountain bike? ›

You may have air in the system and need to bleed your brake, your pads may be worn too far, your rotor may be too dirty, or your pads or rotor could be contaminated. Before bleeding, make sure that everything is clean, and that your pads have at least 3mm of useable material remaining.

What happens when brakes are out of adjustment? ›

To have one brake out of adjustment means an unbalanced system and the loss of 10% of the braking or stopping ability of the entire rig. Two out of adjustment means 20% loss, and at this point the DOT Regulations put the rig out-of-service.

Should brake adjustment be checked often? ›

Brake adjustment must be inspected regularly. The pushrod stroke of each brake chamber is critical to the proper function of a brake system. As the brakes wear, brake pushrod stroke increases. Brake wear occurs at varying rates, depending on the type of vehicle and driving conditions.

Why are my bike brakes not gripping? ›

It could be due to worn-out parts, improper contact with the wheel rim or the disc, or improper maintenance of the brakes. It is essential to identify the issue as soon as possible and deal with it to prevent an accident to you or your bike.

What are the two main cable adjusting points on a brake? ›

There are two main points of adjustment for your cable-based disc brakes. One is at the caliper and the other is the barrel adjuster. The caliper is the claw-looking device at the disk in the center of your wheel. The barrel adjuster is the metal cuff on the brake cable at your brake lever.

How tight should brake cables be? ›

If the lever touches the handlebars, the brake cable is too loose. If you can barely squeeze it at all, the cable is too tight. Ideally, the brake lever should squeeze 3-4cm before becoming difficult.

Why would a parking brake need to be adjusted? ›

At some point in the life of your brake system, it may be necessary to adjust the parking brake for a few reasons. Parking brakes use cables to transmit lever movement, and these cables stretch through use and as they age. A properly tensioned cable is an important part of firmly engaging a parking brake.

How do I know if my drum brakes need adjusting? ›

Periodic adjustment of the drum brakes makes sure that the brakes do not drag when driving as this can rob power from the vehicle and cause the brakes to wear out much more quickly. Drum brakes usually need to be adjusted when the brake pedal has to be pressed down a lot before the brakes engage.

Do self adjusting brakes need to be adjusted? ›

If you let the brakes alone they will eventually adjust themselves so that all of the brake assemblies are operating the same. The self adjusting just brakes adjust themselves each time you apply the brakes and keep the brakes adjusted for maximum braking performance.

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